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Okay, you've decided you really want a bunny - GREAT! We and your new pet will love you for it. But don't rush for the car, just yet. Please read this page first. It will help you with some ideas, pointers, and requirements. Return to Are you a bunny person?. Topics on this page: Do we need to prepare in any way? Aren't bunnies outdoor animals? So, you advise keeping a bunny indoors? You said years. What about our "new" bunny? We want a "kid size" bunny. Ok, so are there any "taking bunny home" instructions? ... Anything I should tell my kids? * Do we need to prepare in any way? You wouldn't bring a new baby home from the hospital without having a crib setup, bottles and formula ready, etc. The same is true of your new pet. BEFORE you adopt a bunny, at the very least, you should have a cage/hutch set up with food and water. Of course, this means you've thought about where you're going to house the bunny - and in what type enclosure, whether or not it's going to be a "house bunny", etc. * Aren't bunnies outdoor animals? The short answer is -- No more than any other domestic pet. The best "rule of thumb" for a bunny comfort is to ask yourself, "Would I like this if it were me?" The first and foremost consideration for keeping a bunny outdoors is temperature. Bunnies, with their fur coat, can tolerate cold a lot better than heat. Of course, freezing temperatures are not comfortable for most any animal, but bunnies are like New Yorkers -- as long as they can get around, they can live with the snow (not in it!) -- but temperatures above 90 degrees are murder! Point is -- protection from the elements is the most important thing. But "protection" goes further than weather. A "chicken wire" cage won't stop a hungry predator. We suggest you either deeply research other hutch designs or purchase a commercially produced hutch and "improve" on it later. Cleaning the hutch is important. An elevated hutch will stay cleaner because you will not have to "trouble yourself" with getting on your hands and knees. We at the Bunny Rescue keep most of the bunnies outdoors, but we've made concessions that most people would consider extreme for "just one bunny" (see "Our Facility" on the menu). All we're saying is to think about it before you decide to "permanently" keep a bunny outdoors. You will, at times of weather (temperature) extremes, have to bring the bunny in. You will need to be prepared for this, as well. Our point to stress is that beyond the basics of shade and protection, the adage of "out of sight - out of mind" applies to the greatest degree. An outdoor bunny is the largest single candidate for neglect. * So, you advise keeping a bunny indoors? In a word -- yes. You adopt a bunny as a pet, why not treat it as one? There are two types of "indoor bunnies" ... One is kept indoors and is allowed to "romp" outdoors for most of the day (remembering climate, of course). These "romps" would be in an area that has been "escape-proofed", "predator-proofed" (other pets included), and has an appropriate bunny "environment" (i.e., small box/hutch to "warren" in, plenty of food and water, shade, etc). The second is a true "house bunny". It's allowed to "free roam" a bunny-proofed area of the house. This area is where its cage (with door open) is kept with its litterbox (yes, they're a snap to litterbox train), toys, etc. The above is the "short version". In either case, as with any pet, time is a factor in getting a bunny to an "unsupervised" state. We never advise leaving a bunny unattended, but after years of coming to know one another, owners and bunnies can find that "happy medium". * You said years. What about our "new" bunny? Of course, a "new" bunny cannot be expected to perform at a level of one that's been conditioned and trained for a long period of time, but that's where your "love factor" comes in. A bunny can be litterbox trained (see "taking bunny home" below), trained to walk on a leash (around the house or the park, not beside a bicycle), trained to "play ball" and many other things that it is physically capable of. It's a heart-melting pleasure to have a bunny come and hop up on the couch to sit with you. Just as with any relationship in life, you will gain more from your relationship with your bunny than you put into it -- if you work at it a little. * We want a "kid size" bunny. Okay, but "kid size" does not mean small! The rule is ... The smaller the child, the bigger the bunny. As we mentioned on the Are You A Bunny Person? page, smaller children simply do not and/or cannot handle a bunny correctly. When people - adult or child - see a small bunny or a dwarf hopping near, their first inclination is to pick up the "cute little thing". A child will want to pick it up so badly that a chase often begins and the bunny's fear-factor skyrockets. When people - adult or child - see a large bunny hopping near, their first inclination is to kneel and pet the bunny without ever entertaining the thought of picking it up. See the difference? A bunny can be extremely entertaining and pleasureable without you ever picking it up. * Ok, so are there any "taking bunny home" instructions? Yes ... Everyones' first inclination is to want to play with the bunny as soon as it gets home. Well, DON'T!! Your bunny has just been taken from familiar surroundings, placed in a box, bounced around, transported, bounced around some more, and now has found itself in a totally new place with people that it doesn't recognize from Adam. Think about it - If you did that to a human, we would call it kidnapping! ... You'd be a little scared, too, wouldn't you? It's amazing how many people take a bunny home and expect it to be some sort of "just add water" perfect, cuddly pet. We've had bunnies returned for that reason alone! Knowing that you've already prepared him a nice cage with plenty of food and water - in a nice quiet area of the house that has little or no traffic -- We advise that when you get "Fluffy" home, simply put him in his cage and go away! Most people can't wait more than a couple of hours, but let him have that much time - at minimum - to become at least a little comfortable with his new home. If you want him to become litterbox trained, now is an excellent time to think about that, as well. From that point, don't go in and just "grab" him. Talk to him. Let him become both familiar with and accustomed to your voice. Your first contact should be to only open the cage door (talking all the time) and pet him (a treat always helps) - without trying to pull him out of the cage. Then close up again and leave him alone for a while longer. Remember, you are teaching a frightened animal that it has nothing to fear from you. * ... Anything I should tell my kids? PARENTS ... make sure your kids understand ... when the bunny is finally "out to play" (see above), do not "rush" the bunny. This will only set the process back. Sit still, maybe with some treats, again - talking to it. Allow the bunny to do the "approaching". When it comes close, lightly pet it on the head and back - it will probably run away. Do not chase it. It is naturally curious and will come back again - especially for treats. Children should never be unsupervised with the bunny until you know, beyond any shadow of doubt, that the child can be absolutely trusted and has been trained in how to handle both the situations and the bunny. If you do not know the absolutely correct way to pick up and release a bunny - ask!! Your child will want to "show off" the new bunny. Until the bunny is really a "member of the family", only one new child should be allowed to "visit" at a time - supervised, of course. The "new" bunny process is slow but very successful. By allowing the bunny to "assimilate" with the surroundings and the new family members you will greatly decrease the adjustment time as well as increase your ability to enjoy the bunny without mishap. |
